Showing posts with label Gordon Ramsay. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gordon Ramsay. Show all posts

Sunday, 3 October 2010

Nigella, Gordon Ramsay and brilliant comedy

There are days, dear readers, that start off with the best of intentions and are filled with the anticipation of greatness to be experienced. The salivation brought on by the knowledge that what you will see may in fact be better than you ever hoped for. This was not one of them.

My intention was to fire up the iPlayer and watch some cookery programmes I had missed during the week. One, Gordon Ramsay's best restaurant always leaves me hungry and I wasn't for a minute expecting quality from Nigella, but OH the horrors, what I did get was 10 times worse, and that was Gordon Ramsay. Nigella Kitchen...Nigella's new series for the brain dead, mammary enamoured, far exceeded my lowest expectations.

Now you may ask why I bothered with Nigella at all? Yes I know it was going to be only slightly better than the annoying Miss Dahl, but as an honest person I need to at least watch something before I tell you it's rubbish. If I may begin with the beginning, Nigella, they're prawns, I don't need an epic poem about your first lover or that the smell evokes summers with your Nan while visiting the Lake District. Tell me where to get them, what a good price is and for G-d's sake, de vein the damn things.  Just how lazy are you?  Oh I forgot , you're Nigella "you can just get the cheaper powder that taste the same" Lawson. The so called recipe for roasted potatoes suggested amusingly that  chucking in a few unpeeled bits of garlic in a pan would somehow miraculously flavour your tatties drenched in, I cant believe you said this, non extra virgin olive oil. I saw nary a sign of "seasoning", garlic is to be used sparingly so as not to offend any people without taste buds. The atrocities committed to the sea food was even worse, she double cooked her calamari before putting into a pan for roasting, great way to produce rubber rings that taste even worse, not that you would notice them over the bland over cooked shrimps with vein still in. Then there was the so called salami pasta in alleged sauce.  The sauce was a tin of tomatoes watered down with pasta water. Is that it????? where is the seasoning, the onions,  the garlic , the pesto , the pine nuts, the hint of chilli maybe, or grated cheese for extra zing? And why in heaven's name was she cutting the salami with scissors??? Had she never heard of a knife? I never did get past the 10 minute mark, but I can assume the assault, had it continued would have rendered me catatonic. What Nigella Lawson knows about cooking is not worth passing on to other breathing beings intent on wasting good ingredients. As for her pantry, it was too sparse and was too brightly lit. You want food to age faster, expose it to too much light. As for the contents, it was filled with rubbish most self respecting cooks would never buy. There was nothing in it she had made herself in advance and the packets of noodles were the kind my father used to keep when he cooked just enough for himself, her pantry was in fact, empty.  A proper pantry would have been groaning with spices, herbs, flours, yeast, lards or various kinds of oils, vinegars and pastes. I didn't see barley, lima beans, rice, polenta or dried fruits like raisins or prunes. I bet she doesn't even know the names of half the utensils artfully arrayed on her work area but never used in the recipes. People please do me a favour, do not watch this ever, if you like knockers, there are plenty of shapely well endowed women on the internet who are willing to show you more than a sweater. If however you wanted to cook for your family, watch a Jamie Oliver repeat, or perhaps pick up a Hairy Bikers book, loads of great ideas with real food and real cooking skills. Other than keeping her massive breasts in constant camera shot, how this woman gets commissioned for new series is a mystery to me.

SO what did I do to calm my nerves, reset my brain to default cookery senses? I watched episode 3 of Ramsay's best restaurants, Chinese. I expected to be in a food trance that would only be ended with Dim Sum on Sunday. Instead, I was even more furious than after the Nigella debacle. Normally the programme is spot on, the criticisms just and the tests fair. But the Chinese episode showed a cultural chasm on the part of the viewers and Gordon Ramsay himself in regards to Chinese cuisine. I can speak from experience about this as I was married for 14 years to a Chinese woman and by extension her family. My father in law was a chef and we ate all sorts at home. If we went out it was only to proper, REAL, Chinese restaurants. My current (and best) wife is Jewish and raised in the belief that if pork is served  in a Chinese place in Queens, it's kosher. Any way you slice it, neither of us or my ex wife or my now deceased former father in law, would set foot in The Kai or You Yue. Both are what you call "White Devil" places. One tries to posh up to the level of the Fat Duck or one of Gordon's places and the other is just basic Chinese for non Chinese customers. Little wonder they were recommended by the ordinary Briton who thinks they make strawberry somosas or lamb chops in China. Dover Sole is also not a big seller in Hong Kong or the mainland. What the average Chinese person eats, even far from home, is so much more varied than what the white bland Briton is prepared for.

As for our Chef Gordon, I know for a fact he has not spent more than a few hours in a proper Chinese restaurant. If he had , he would be aware that cooks, sous chefs and family , SPEAK LOUDLY AT EACH OTHER! It's normal, it's in the blood and you cannot tell them not to do it.  Presentation and service are also not the same as you would expect in a normal European eatery. Chinese food comes often, all at once in several large plates and bowls. In fact you're supposed to eat it all with a bowl of rice you put things on. I hear some of you ask  what's wrong with just a plate of large cubed beef? Chinese cuisine makes sure the meats are not alone on the plate or in your mouth , they are prepared to last and stretch and mingle with your veg, nuts and sauces. In essence to pick up anything that large with chopsticks is impolite and a waste of food. Half that amount sliced, could have fed an entire family. Meats are served on a bed of various kinds of noodles and seasoned in more than just rice wine. During preparation, meat. like all ingredients in Chinese cookery, is sliced thin for easy marinating, cooking, and eating.  Oriental food is the art of the delicate mouthful that merges sweet, sour, crunchy, soft, slimy and pasty.  In fact my former Father in law cooked with sherry, whiskey,sesame oil, and fish oil for starters. The array of spices I learned to use from him and others like him, is far greater than those on display at either of the kitchens in the ep. Furthermore, to subject the Chinese chefs to a kitchen without a real wok station is to handicap the gentlemen in question. It was sad to see these fine cooks reduce their cuisine to a series of fake Chinese to please white devils who wouldn't know real Chinese if it crawled out of the bowl and said hello. I have eaten , kidneys, mushrooms, vast amounts of fish, octopus, abalone, shark, pork, beef, assorted offal, chicken and duck. Tea, an entire separate level of ceremony, seems to have been completely dropped and the desserts in no way resemble anything you would be offered in a Chinese home or eatery. You don't need to take the piss out of the cuisine or dumb it down to make it palatable, to have a food adventure. The handful of Chinese dinners in the third test were hardly quoted and far too polite to say the food was rubbish. In the case of the Kai, to equate it to so called Michelin level Chinese is an insult to the grand traditions of Chinese cuisine that include food so fine, rare and delicate that only Emperors were allowed to eat it.  There is of course the intermediary level reserved for high holy days, weddings and  foods prepared in honour of the seasons. There is a reason why things are done the way they are, and it is bound up in the rich traditions of face, communal dinning and the high wire act of selecting the best morsel from your side of the plate without offending the eldest or the most important person at the table.  Try this one for fun if you're with Chinese people in a restaurant, .... try paying, the acrobatics and diplomacy involved in this is worthy of a screen play. Gordon Ramsay got it horribly wrong.

And finally .... I watched with great delight, The Rob Brydon show, free of James Corden, he had on Stephen Fry, rising young comic Daniel Sloss and Seasick Steve. The half hour went by far too quickly, but not before we heard Rob Brydon accompany Seasick and have Stephen Fry give us a useful definition we can all apply daily... Countryside....To kill Piers Morgan. For a chaser, one tuned into Qi XL- Hoaxes and 8 out of 10 cats. I learned a few interesting things. Cauliflower is misunderstood, Sean Locke is mostly not funny on Qi or Cats, Daniel Sloss IS funny, and Stephen Fry has some strange ideas about oranges.....Oh and the hoax item on Qi??? I won't tell you, you can watch for yourself.

Have you missed  BBC 3's Ideal? Fix that now. A sitcom about a variegated group of unique individuals, starring Mick Miller, Johny Vegas and our own Alfie Joey. If you don't get it, just spend some time in an older building in a neighbourhood of artists, dreamers, writers, musicians, con men, schemers, gays, sex workers, students, and assorted nutters the NHS has deemed safe to walk the streets. Their unique views on the world get credence from each other, feeding and encouraging schemes only slightly less insane than the current story line on Ideal. I have partied with these people, they are real, well almost all of them, I've never met Cartoon Head.

Next post is Strictly Strictly, far too much to say in one short paragraph. Laters all. Howay the Lads, Good Luck against Manchester City!

Thursday, 16 September 2010

It's cookery time again

Another night of iPlayer cookery fun. The great British bake off  and Gordon Ramsay's new best restaurants last night. Now I know not all of you consider 3 hours of food on the gogle box a thrill a minute telly, but I enjoy it immensely. My family certainly don't mind. Within a day of these things I'm the kitchen cooking my personal version of something I saw the night before.

Tonight I made mushroom and saffron risotto, because I can! tomorrow it's a chicken mushroom and leek pie. If we're lucky, there'll be enough pie to last us a few days.  Oh and a beef and barley soup from scratch.  Why do I mention these things? Am I boasting? Perhaps I want to torture some of you with food you can only buy from the frozen section. Honest truth?  Only a little bit. Mostly it's down to the knowledge that between myself and my wife, we can make the so called difficult dishes that pass for tests on the telly. Oh I haven't ever used suet in my life, but that doesn't mean I can't learn fast enough. We've come to the conclusion, while sharpening knives that were less cutting than an Oscar Wilde witicism, that just maybe we're beyond most of these cookery programmes and  it's time we took some classes. You know the feeling when you watch something and you're miles ahead of the presenter or reacting in the exact  same way as the expert? That's us these days. While I apprciate the fact that not all of us are on the same level at the same time, surely it's time the likes of Raymond Blanc and the cursing Scot were unleashed in some truly advanced cookery programmes. Blanc teased us with some secrets last Spring, but since then it's the same old same old.

Speaking of which, watched episodes 4 and 5 of the Great British Bake Off. That would be puddings and pastry. the remaining contestants without exception, get on my tit. Even the nice boy from Yorkshire is annoying. These contestants seem to revel in making as many base errors as possible. Posh southern lady thinks rules are for wimps, bald Ljunberg look alike flies by the seat of his pants, polite Asian lady is pretending to be 6th gen Norman and mostly ignores her Asian roots, Salford lady, one of two truly gifted bakers, is too afraid of her own talent, and accountant glasses boy ... it was baking or becoming a Lion tamer that kept him from going barking mad. So why do I watch? Simples as the Meercat would say, it's a personal competition to see if the challenges would make me break a sweat or not. The level of expertise required to complete the tasks is nothing to take lightly, but we're both up to it. If anything, simple basic mistakes we haven't made in years were routinely cropping up. Like what I hear you ask..... Well I'll tell you. Pie for example, you pre bake your pie bottoms for a few minutes ( 10 to 15 minutes depending) before you fill them. This avoids the old bogey man of the soggy bottom. But did these people do that? Of course not. They were all sweating till the last second never sure if the pie turned out well or not. Some were lucky  some were not. Had they taken the obvious step earlier on, there would have been no worry. Oh and minor complaint , but still worth noting, why did somebody present a history of puddings if she wasn't prepared to try the food from beginning to end? Hardly a ringing endorsement for her pallet. I'm supposed to trust her opinion on interesting and innovative combinations? Another thing, if those were Cornish pasties, I'm a Sunderland supporter. I watched the Hairy Bikers in Cornwall earlier in the year and they did it much better.

I will stick it out till the end as the presenters on the whole seems to know what they're doing. And despite my criticism, it's a friendly reminder that I may have neglected certain recipes. In fact I promise here and now to make a proper New York Deli cheese cake next week as my sponge is that tasty and light. In addition, it's been donkeys since I made a quiche Lorraine. Winter is coming and it's time to fill the freezer with tasty things we can eat later on.  Perhaps even a meringue that I'll whip by hand. I do consider myself lucky in one regard, my lovely wife affords me the opportunity to prepare feasts for her Holydays and she looks forward to mine. Between us we cover the gamut from Passover to Christmas with resulting occasions for mounds of Polish food to strain the molecular stability of our dinning table. Most recently Rosh Hashana ( a belated L'shana Tova to our Jewish friends) saw home made gefilte fish that was declared the best some had had in years. Particularly proud of that as it tasted the same as the deli stuff we used to get from the kosher counter years ago. Barscz or beet soup was another triumph that had us eschewing the jarred stuff from now on. As good as my Babcia's it was, and that's saying a lot. Next time the uszka ( mushroom filled dumpling you have with the soup) get made as well, but that will wait for Wigilia ( Christmas Eve) the most important meal in the Polish calendar outside of Easter Sunday. Those of you wondering if the food for Catholic and Jewish feast days is somehow different if you're Polish? Nope, as near as identical as to make no difference. The dates for the major occasions differ, but the food and the meanings are the same. These fine Polish dishes only find small echoes in UK cookery, but being a hearty northern cuisine, you find a lot of close relatives in Northern English cooking and baking. More on that in future blogs, 

Before I get carried away, Gordon Ramsay is back on C4 with what I fully expect to be an exciting new series of Ramsay's Best Restaurant. Last night was Italian night. Traditional cooking v Heston foam and dry ice . While the traditional restaurant had continued troubles with front of house, the Italian Hestons with a Michelin Star wowed a panel of cognoscenti and took the Italian title. While it may be a nice nod to an innovative take on Italian, as a relatively normal dinner, I would not choose to regularly drop large sums of money to see steam come out my wife's nostrils. If I'm tired of cooking, I want a nice lasagna, chicken alfredo or veal parmigiana.  I appreciate that Gordon Ramsay is trying to represent the  sometimes uncultured tastes of the average white Norman person raised on " not too much spice please". But I hope he allows for genuine ethnic cooking to rise and shine above the toned down "acceptable" chicken tiki places. Last night's ep was outstanding for one particular reason, the restaurants were both on a level of professionalism that led to greater expectations than anything you would get in a bog standard spag bol place. The first chef frankly was head an shoulders above the wet behind the ears lads flash freezing peas. He commanded his kitchen while holding the  respect of his sous chefs. A pity his waiters were more interested in big tips and less interested selling the full range of items on offer any given night.And how sweet is that gig if you're a GR coach party special dinner or even a secret tester. You get to be a bit of  prat and get paid to eat some truly outstanding food. I'll let you know when I find out just how you sign up for this kind of jury duty.

As good as Gordon gets up to at home, his latest US venture.... Master Chef USA, was a disappointment in sooo many ways. Most importantly, his final 2 hour special that crowned a frankly amateurish and pedestrian Southern girl as winner. The final featured recipes that Jaunty Road and Greg Wallace would have rejected in the quarter final stages as too simple or too flawed. Basic errors like potential raw chicken ( unchecked but still served) by the eventual winner and overcooking of simple dishes in the grand final were enough to make you feel bad for Gordon, who was sat there looking like he might not be able to find the strength to pretend that these 4 people were anywhere near as good as any of the top 10 finalist of the last UK Master Chef. Even Celebrity Master Chef  had more challenging dishes and better cooking than these four so called finalists were able to produce. Simply put, I would rather eat anything cooked by people who had to serve royalty and the WI to win, than this bunch who had only to impress two judges with no taste buds and Gordon Ramsay. If this is the future of Master Chef UK, then I'm not sure I'll be watching.

BTW, a massive thank you to Ivica Slavikova fans, you keep coming back every time that advert runs. Is it the peas or the way she says "Purr-verse"?  

Next blog will have the long promised top 10 baking tools we can't live without, and if I ask my wife real nice, one of her best cakes you to can try yourself at home. As always, this blog written to the tune of BBC Radio Newcastle's Beat Surrender. Great show Nick, nice to hear some new songs in the line up. Thanks for getting me through blog post number 42. Indeed food should be the answer to Life the Universe and Everything.